“You might be in there for only a few seconds—in real time—but in your head it goes on for hours, it is an experience that’s hard to describe, riding inside of a big, grinding wave. Often you’re riding so deep inside the tube, you don’t make it out. You take a terrible wipe out. What matters is when you’re in there, it’s the time interval when you’re inside the wave. Time enters space, a zone of its own. The only reality is what’s happening right then.” – George Greenough
Experience remote Australia and hidden California, as ridden by Bob McTavish, Ted Spencer, Baddy Treloar, Chris Brock, Gary Keys, Russell Hughes and a brigade of the underground’s best. Check out Northern NSW in the golden era of the late 1960’s, with empty perfection at Lennox Head. This release is essential watching because it is a cinematic masterwork of the highest magnitude. George Greenough chronicles ground zero of the shortboard revolution, as it evolved in 1968. This highly personalized film is the prime instigator’s perspective of the innovations that changed surfing for evermore.